The next morning we went back to the trailhead with the goal of heading into the canyon that John had started to explore the afternoon before.
Wow, that’s quite a canyon.
I made it down the first ledge.
Ummm…so gorgeous, but…does it just drop off?
I inched down a bit further.
I still appear to be approaching a dropoff.
I looked back up the way I came. I can get back up that, right?
Ok, this is looking like about as far as I’m going to get.
I’ll just take a couple of scenic shots of the sides of the canyon before turning back.
I inched out a little farther. John’s like, look, see, it’s fine. No problem.
No problem for you maybe! I know this is the correct route down, but occasional cairn piles marking the route into a huge canyon doesn’t feel like a “trail” to me. Sorry, but I’m heading back up! Get me outta here.
It was very pretty, but I figured I had seen enough. I took a few more pictures on my way out. It was really stunning.
A final backward glance – geez, I went out there?
Almost to the top…
Ugh, I have to get back up that. Can you see Biska’s little face up there in the shadows, looking out over the canyon, waiting for me? I’m coming Biska!
John walked behind, helping me when I needed a boost or a steady hand. He and Biska were acting like they were taking a walk in the park.
Finally I was out of the canyon (whew).
Biska and I sat and rested at the top while John hiked along the cliff edge to see where the two canyons intersected. I had no interest in peering over the edge. It was peaceful on the mesa and I didn’t mind waiting.
Here’s John’s photos from the edge of the top of the canyon.
The next morning, we headed home. We often go to Utah around the time of John’s birthday, because it’s one of his favorite things to do.
There should always be cheesecake at the end of every trail. Happy Birthday, John!
After two nights at White Canyon we decided we had time for one more spot. John knew of another area he wanted to check out, near somewhere he had once backpacked many years ago.
On the map he spotted a road that lead to a trailhead. It looked like it might be a good spot to camp. We like to be near a trailhead for hiking. About half a mile or a mile away from the trailhead is perfect, because it’s close enough to walk to the trailhead, but not so close that we are contending with trailhead traffic while resting at our campsite.
It turned out the entire area was perfect for camping – trees for shade, flat enough to get off the road, but not so flat as to be utterly boring. We pulled off the road at a spot that had been used as a campsite in the past, about a mile before the trailhead. I was hoping for cell reception, but there didn’t seem to be much.
I liked the area because the piñon trees reminded me of New Mexico. (Piñons are short pine trees, alternatively spelled pinyon, and yes, the pine nuts are edible.)
As soon as we arrived, John and Biska ran down the road to the trailhead into the canyons to check it out while I got settled. On their walk, John found another campsite closer to the trailhead that he liked. It had great views.
But I liked our campsite better, nestled in some trees. I enjoy views, but I don’t like exposed campsites.
When John and Biska got to the trailhead parking area, nobody was there. Nobody was there the next day when I went down with him either. And nobody drove past our campsite on the road. A ranger drove down and back once. That was it. I shouldn’t even be telling you about it this unknown, amazing place. Shhh!
Here’s pictures from John and Biska’s short reconnaissance hike when we first got there.
Wow, so spectacular – and nobody here.
After John and Biska got back from checking out the canyon, we went on an evening stroll along the top of an easily accessible nearby ridge. I was hoping to pick up cell reception, but didn’t get much. Oh well, if anyone needs us they can wait another day or two.
I think those two bumps on the horizon are the “Bears Ears” of Bears Ears National Monument.
I just loved it out there – so peaceful and relaxing.
See our van down there? There’s our van!
Getting dark now, time to head back to our campsite. In the morning we’ll hike into the canyons.
Let me do a quick recap, since I posted the last couple of posts in the wrong order. I was able to reorder them on my blog, but I can’t do anything about the fact that the emails went out in the wrong order, for those of you who subscribe by email.
After a rough drive out to Utah, we spent our first night at a small creek near Grosvenor Arch, which turned out to be a muddy ditch overrun by cattle, so we only stayed one night. The next morning we drove around on the nearby ridges looking for a better site, but didn’t see anything particularly promising further up that road. So we went out to the highway and headed north until we found a different dirt road that looked better.
We were looking for the shelter of trees because a weather front was upon us and we didn’t want to be exposed in a windstorm. But in the desert, trees are more common in high elevations and we didn’t want to go up too high because it would be cold with the weather front approaching. Where to go?
We found the perfect spot under some big pine trees south of Canaan Peak, and spent two days relaxing and hiking. We had some wind above us in the trees, but it was surprisingly calm down at ground level. We couldn’t even tell that the winds were screaming out on the desert plains just a few miles away.
We left the pines on the last windy day. We drove through Escalante, Torrey, and Hanksville, which was a beautiful drive, and then we dropped south on Hwy 95 to White Canyon.
When we arrived at White Canyon it was still windy with dirt in the air, but it was stunningly beautiful.
The next morning we had calm weather and blue skies. Perfect timing!
We spent the day hiking around, exploring. Our morning hike was my choice – up a shallow canyon above White Canyon.
Look at those funny little balls of rock. Often when we’re hiking I wish I was a geologist and a biologist so I would know what I was looking at. I am an environmental scientist, but I mostly know about mitigating human impact on the environment, such as the regulation of air quality and water quality impacts. I don’t tend to know details about the specific rocks and bushes (unless they’re endangered).
This rock was crazy. It’s hard to see in the picture, but it’s about a foot or two tall, and only about an inch thick. It’s nuts how the sandstone will erode.
Here’s another example, again it’s hard to tell in the photo what you’re looking at, but that rock is less than a centimeter thick in places; a shell of sandstone that has been eroded from below.
John took a close-up of this little cave, because he loves caves
He leaned in closer and closer until he ended up with this photo:
And I was like, aak, yuck, no, it looks like my colon!
Better stick with the amazing vistas.
I quit at the bottom of this ledge, but John and Biska went just a little bit farther.
She’s turning out to be a fine rock-scrambling desert dog!
Time to head back toward camp.
Luckily Biska didn’t see this guy.
After we got back to the campsite, John’s next goal was to hike down into the main canyon. We had already hiked up-canyon that morning and I didn’t want to go down to the big canyon, so I decided to stay behind at the campsite.
Here I am, collecting heart-shaped rocks near our campsite. Biska’s like, “Mom? There’s nothing interesting in that pile of rocks. The exciting lizards are hiding in the bushes! You’re looking in the wrong place!”
Finding heart-shaped rocks in the desert is equivalent to my superpower of finding 4-leaf clovers. John tried to help, lol. He’s better than me at most things in life, but this is my superpower and he can’t compete.
Although I admit, some of those aren’t perfect hearts, lol. But no heart is perfect.
The weather started to look a little threatening for John’s hike down into the main canyon – possible afternoon thundershowers.
It can be very dangerous in canyons during and after rain events due to flash flooding. But in this case, we knew where it might rain, we understood the layout of the canyons in that area, and we knew the potential direction of water flow. So we were confident that current conditions were safe for his hike. Less predictable is lightning, but we didn’t hear any, even in the distance. The canyon was very close to camp, so we figured he would have enough time to get back to camp if needed.
Here’s pictures from his hike:
They had a fun hike, did not get rained on, and came back with beautiful pictures.
After camping at a couple of new spots southwest of Escalante (and southeast of Bryce), we decided to head out to a tried-and-true spot. John wanted to camp in the sandstone formations, and we knew just the place. Several times in the past we’ve camped at a little-known canyon called White Canyon, off Hwy 95, near the Hite crossing of the Colorado River, north of Lake Powel, between Canyonlands and Glen Canyon.
We had an extremely scenic drive to get there; Escalante to Boulder to Torrey to Hanksville and then south on 95. If you ever want to do a driving tour of the lesser-known sections of southern Utah, be sure to drive at least the section from Escalante to Torrey.
It was still very windy, so I was dubious about leaving the protective forest campsite we had found, but the forecast called for the winds stopping that night. John said it would be perfect – we would do our driving during the worst of the wind, get ourselves situated, and then we would wake up to great weather in the morning.
When we first arrived that afternoon, the air was full of dirt from the windstorm.
It was still very beautiful though.
Here’s my picture out the van door. I collect these “van view” shots.
Sunset that night was gorgeous.
Wow, the lighting was amazing.
And the next morning, perfect weather, no wind, and a strong blue sky.
I accidentally posted about White Canyon before this post, so in case you’re confused, this is the second place we went to in Utah. This is where we waited out the windstorm, before we went on to White Canyon.
After a disappointing first night along a cattle-infested muddy wash near Grosvenor Arch, we were on the search for a new campsite. The dirt road that extended past the arch was surprisingly full of campers, so we wanted to find a less popular spot.
We also wanted somewhere fairly warm and sheltered. We knew a front was coming through, and it had already gotten windy. I didn’t want to be out in the middle of the desert during a sandstorm. So we headed toward the trees.
John knows the remote regions of Utah very well, which is really helpful when doing this kind of trip. We hadn’t been to this particular spot before, but his general knowledge helped us make educated guesses about where to go.
This spot turned out to be perfect. The huge pines filtered the rising winds, keeping it surprisingly calm. And it wasn’t so high up in elevation as to be too cold. It was a pleasant spot and completely empty.
At first we put Biska out on her line, but after awhile we realized we didn’t need to keep her tied up. The road didn’t go anywhere and nobody drove by the entire time we were out there. Biska won’t just run off – the only reason we sometimes need to keep her tied or leashed is if there are other people around. She’s extremely friendly and will burst into people’s campsites and jump all over them if we let her.
We set up a cell tower booster. There’s generally very little cell reception in the remote sections of southern Utah. We feel very lucky when we get any reception at all.
We don’t need to surf the internet or watch TV or anything, but we feel much better if we can get a text message in and out in case we run into issues such as a health emergency. We also don’t like to be completely unavailable if something comes up at one of our rentals. We have a handyman, so almost everything can be handled long distance – if we have enough cell reception to get a text out to authorize and arrange anything that’s needed.
I love the pines and there were plenty of places to walk.
And wildflowers!
I would have been content to spend the entire vacation there. But John still wanted the classic red-rock Utah experience. So on the third day, when the storm was almost over, we headed back out toward the desert.
After a challenging drive to Utah, we were happy to arrive at our first destination.
It was a bit of a disappointment, however. We had envisioned a pretty little creek shaded by cottonwood trees. Alternatively, we would have been fine with just a dry wash, shaded by cottonwood trees. What we got was cattle and sticky, stinking mud and flies (shaded by cottonwood trees).
I didn’t even want to let Biska out of the van because she is a big fan of mud. I’m not. I truly hate mud. I particularly hate mud that cattle have been wallowing in. I did not need cowpie mud all over my exuberant dog – and tracked into my van. It was too late to go anywhere else that night, so we walked Biska on a leash and went to bed.
The next morning we went out past Grosvenor Arch and looked for an alternative camping spot on higher ground.
It was a pretty enough area, but it was surprisingly crowded and we couldn’t find a camping spot we were happy with. We decided to drive on.
Every year we try to go to Utah around Memorial Day or soon thereafter for John’s birthday. We noticed that a weather front was forecasted to come through, right in the middle of the weekend. But we decided to go anyway. John has gotten quite busy at work and didn’t see another good time. I’ve also gotten the remodel started with a big cement pour coming up soon after we were scheduled to get home. So off we went.
Day one of our Utah trip was challenging. We were barely underway when our navigation started warning us about a double accident on the freeway between Phoenix and Flagstaff. Estimated wait times climbed as we approached Phoenix. By the time we were in Phoenix, wait times were estimated at nearly two hours and still climbing. We stopped at a park in northern Phoenix to decide what to do. There really wasn’t a good way around the accidents. But we did not want to sit on the freeway for two hours. We decided to find a café with an outdoor patio and order lunch.
By the time we finished our excellent lunch at a little Greek café, the freeway ahead was nearly clear. We had only been underway for a few miles when suddenly I had a sinking feeling, followed by panic – did I leave my purse behind?
When we left the Greek café, our hands were full; I juggled Biska on a leash in one hand, and her water dish in my other, trying not to spill the water. John had gathered up the trash for the garbage can as well as our drinks and leftovers to take back to the van. My purse had been sitting on the chair behind me. Did I leave it there?
We had eaten outside on the patio, and it wasn’t even a contained patio. It was just a few tables out on the far edge of the sidewalk. People were walking through the whole time we were eating. Surely if I left my purse it wouldn’t still be there.
John exited the freeway to get turned around, and I frantically searched for the phone number for the café. The woman on the phone sounded dubious, but suddenly she said, “I see it!”, and she nearly hung up on me in her haste to dash out and save my purse for me.
We drove back and I ran in for my purse, which she had set by the cash register. She gently admonished me, as she handed it to me, saying that even though it was a good neighborhood, she was surprised it was still there.
I was relieved and also felt foolish and frustrated. I am having much more difficulty tracking things since I had chemo two years ago. I know everyone has trouble as they get older, but for me it was very sudden.
I am also having trouble with proprioception, which is my sense of where I am relative to my surroundings. Because of that, I bump into things a lot. I’ve always been that way, in fact one of my coworkers in Santa Fe teased me for being “fond of walls” because I would misjudge and bump into corners sometimes. That was before chemotherapy. But I’m much worse now, and I am usually banged and bandaged up from minor household incidents; bruises, burns and cuts.
I recently hit not one but both of my feet on the open door of my dishwasher (which I don’t leave hanging open unless I’m actively unloading it). First I hit my left foot and a week later I hit my right foot. And the day before we left for Utah I burned my forearm while making bread for the trip. Bumbling and forgetful – lovable maybe, but decidedly frustrating too.
After we collected my forgotten purse, we continued on our way, the freeway slow but moving through the canyons heading to Flagstaff. Our only incident was an old guy in a pickup truck towing a utility trailer, suddenly decided to change lanes right into us. We couldn’t believe he didn’t see our huge van, but apparently he didn’t. John had to swerve and sound his horn. I saw the old man’s surprised look through the window as he swerved back into his own lane. I think the poor guy nearly had a heart attack. I nearly did too.
So two near misses and the day was only half through. What next?
What came next was a twisty gravel road as we headed into the mountains. John and I have been on dozens of twisty mountain roads together. I often find them nerve wracking, but on that day my nerves were already shot. First my lost purse, then our near accident with the old guy in our lane – there was too much adrenaline already circulating in my system.
One minute I was happy looking at the scenery, and the next moment my brain was inexplicably shouting at me that the road was ending at a cliff and we were driving off the edge! Before I even understood what was happening I started screaming. Poor John braked and looked at me. What in the world was wrong?
I had lost my mind, that was what was wrong. I was frantically trying to get out of the van. John was already driving quite slowly due to the nature of the road, so it only took him a second to stop. I leaped out and ran to the other side of the road – and back again – suddenly unsure of what I was afraid of. There was the road in front of us. Yes, it descended quite steeply and we hadn’t been able to see it until we crested the rise. But this was nothing new for me. I’ve been driving mountain roads my whole life.
I was embarrassed and discouraged. What is becoming of me? I’m a life coach, so I know the techniques to use for anxiety, such as breathing deeply and slowly. But this had happened far too fast for any intervention technique. I had no idea it was going to happen to me and no time to do any slow, deep breathing or anything else – at least not until I suddenly found myself standing in middle of the road. And by that time, I was fine again.
I guess it was a panic attack. For some reason, I always thought people knew when those were coming on. I thought they built up and it would be possible to intervene. But this was incredibly sudden and unexpected. The entire episode only lasted a few seconds. It was over before I had even understood what was happening, much less have any time to practice slow breathing, or make any attempt to override the irrational reaction. It just happened too fast.
I’m not sure if my chemotherapy did some damage and I am simply different now, or if I am actually continuing to get worse. In which case, I suppose I should seek medical assistance. If I’m not getting any worse, I can probably learn to live with my new, less reliable, post-chemo brain. If I am getting worse, why would that be? Is there something even scarier than cancer in my future?
I used to imagine that we could somehow just steel ourselves and be tough, and override any irrational tendencies of our minds. That was hubris. We are way more at the effect of our minds than we would ever want to admit to ourselves. If our minds aren’t working right, there’s not much we can do about it. It’s not about strength of character. This just isn’t in our control.
This is hard to describe, but there’s a thing where we look down on people for what their minds do to them. We arrogantly think highly of ourselves because we aren’t like them. But it’s so unfair because it’s not their fault.
I’m realizing on a new level that to a great extent we do not get to take pride in – or blame for – who we are.
I’m so far behind on my posts. Here’s some more San Diego pictures from over a month ago. I’ve need to just plow through last month’s events because now I’ve got June stuff to write about. We’ve been doing a lot!
Here’s John and Biska at sunset in San Diego. That dog is getting almost too big to be carried around. She’s 25 pounds now, and we think she’s about done growing. She’s long, so she looks bigger than 25 pounds.
I took far too many pictures of the sunset. I love the sunset over the ocean.
One morning we went to the Safari Park outside of Escondido.
John really likes that park. I was grumpy because it was colder than I expected that far inland. I wanted a hot coffee, so we went to the unbranded coffee shop in the park. There was only one barista that early in the morning and she didn’t even know how to make hot coffee – only iced. I did not want iced coffee – I was freezing. She couldn’t make most of what was on the menu and refused to take instructions.
I ended up with a lukewarm “coffee” that tasted like the chocolate milk that we used to get in little cartons in the lunchroom when we were kids. The only possible value there would be for nostalgia; but not in my case.
John kept trying to take my picture but all he was getting was scowls. He was failing to coax a smile out of me. Eventually he tricked me into laughing. I look like I was having a great time!
Later we went on an afternoon walk around a reservoir northeast of San Diego. I had been there before with my brother and knew it was a nice walk. The fog finally burned off that afternoon, plus we were some distance from the ocean. I was finally warm enough.
Here we are at a neighborhood park near the lake.
We found some excellent Thai food in the suburbs.
There’s nothing like a cloudless sky to improve my mood. Ocean and lakes and good food – at moments like this I’m like wow, we could have moved here! But houses in this region start at about a million and a half, and go up from there. Plus I spent most of that trip cold. I think we’re a much better fit for Tucson, even though there’s no ocean.
Heading down to say good-bye to the beach on our last morning.
Brrr! Next time I want to walk on the beach, I’m going to Mexico. It’s closer! Not to mention warmer.
Yep, there’s our van on the cliff on the left. All things considered, it is a fairly spectacular place for a campsite.
There’s a dog beach on Coronado Island where the dogs can run free in the ocean. Biska had never seen anything like it!
John says for once my videos aren’t boring, but don’t take his word for it. They’re just as boring as all my other little home videos of dogs and rain and games and floating trees.
While Biska was having the time of her life, I got distracted. This little puppy was there with his foster mom, looking for a new home. Now in my defense, I don’t actually want MOST puppies I see. But every so often it’s just love at first sight. I did not want to put this little guy down. The perfect playmate for Biska!
I don’t remember what the foster mom was calling him, but clearly his name should be Juan. Doesn’t he look like a Juan? Luckily, I don’t really want a boy dog. If this puppy had been a girl, I don’t know how I would have managed to let go.
As I stood on the beach possessively clinging to this puppy, John was giving me a look that meant, “It’s him or me babe, you choose.” So hmmm, Juan or John? I chose John, but it was a close one!
At the beginning of May, John and I camped at a state park at the beach north of San Diego. It’s very difficult to get reservations for camping at the beach, so I had made them sometime last year, having no idea what we would be up to during May.
We almost decided not to go because John’s been quite busy at work and having to go to Albuquerque frequently. But we didn’t want to give up the reservations that are so hard to get. So off we went to California!
Biska appears to be getting too big for her bed between our seats in the van.
We’re here!
I always like to take a view shot from the open van door everywhere we stay. Oceanfront!
The obligatory crooked-camera selfie in front of the ocean to send to my friends:
Yes, I’m wearing a jacket over a sweater because brrrr, I’m used to Tucson!
We arrived on a Sunday in the late afternoon, and the first thing we did was visit with my brother and his kids, because once the week got going they would be busy with school and activities. It was getting dark, but I still tried to take a photo. I wanted to take a picture of just them, but Katherine insisted on me taking a selfie with them. So unfortunately, there I am not helping the photo out any.
I was super happy to see them, lol. Me the dorky aunt. This is Katherine and Alex; Jonathan is off to college now.
The next day John and I went to Balboa Park. It’s great they allow dogs.
We were curious about these pretty little fig-like fruits.
I had to tell John not to try to eat it! We did not know what it was and I think spotted things look particularly poisonous. Usually it’s Biska I’m shouting to, “Don’t eat that!” She is a doggy vacuum cleaner. I don’t usually have to implore John to not eat things. I don’t think John would actually have eaten it…or maybe just a nibble? Hopefully he was just teasing me, but you never know.
Mmmmm…grass. Lovely, thick, long, green grass. We don’t get a lot of that in Tucson.
Hmmm, what’s this? Some sort of trumpet vine except dark pink instead of orange? I want to grow that!
This huge hedge of star jasmine smelled amazing.
Clouds again, but still beautiful.
Here we are walking near the campground. It was definitely colder than we’re used to in Tucson!
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Please try again."}},"email_for_login_code":{"placeholder_text":"Your email address","initial":{"instruction_type":"normal","instruction_message":"Enter your email to log in."},"success":{"instruction_type":"success","instruction_message":"Enter your email to log in."},"blank":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"Enter your email to log in."},"empty":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"Enter your email to log in."}},"login_code":{"initial":{"instruction_type":"normal","instruction_message":"Check your email and enter the login code."},"success":{"instruction_type":"success","instruction_message":"Check your email and enter the login code."},"blank":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"Check your email and enter the login code."},"empty":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"Check your email and enter the login code."}},"stripe_all_in_one":{"initial":{"instruction_type":"normal","instruction_message":"Enter your credit card details here."},"empty":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"Enter your credit card details here."},"success":{"instruction_type":"normal","instruction_message":"Enter your credit card details here."},"invalid_number":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card number is not a valid credit card number."},"invalid_expiry_month":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's expiration month is invalid."},"invalid_expiry_year":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's expiration year is invalid."},"invalid_cvc":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's security code is invalid."},"incorrect_number":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card number is incorrect."},"incomplete_number":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card number is incomplete."},"incomplete_cvc":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's security code is incomplete."},"incomplete_expiry":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's expiration date is incomplete."},"incomplete_zip":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's zip code is incomplete."},"expired_card":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card has expired."},"incorrect_cvc":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's security code is incorrect."},"incorrect_zip":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's zip code failed validation."},"invalid_expiry_year_past":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card's expiration year is in the past"},"card_declined":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The card was declined."},"missing":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"There is no card on a customer that is being charged."},"processing_error":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"An error occurred while processing the card."},"invalid_request_error":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"Unable to process this payment, please try again or use alternative method."},"invalid_sofort_country":{"instruction_type":"error","instruction_message":"The billing country is not accepted by SOFORT. Please try another country."}}}},"fetched_oembed_html":false}
